An unbelievable, breath taking view from our airbnb (Headford House) in Westport overlooking Clew Bay! Mom is certainly smiling down as we settle in to her ancestral land. Keith and I traveled to Ireland in 2001 with Mom – it is great to be back with my brothers Bill and Bob, and cousin Rick and his wife Karen.

Day one of our trip (Thursday – May 25) was a hike in Louisburgh where Mom’s ancestors are from. Began at Carrowmore Beach and then walked one lane town roads through the village. Great, easy walk for our first day, through neighborhoods and farm land.

Kilgeever Cemetery in Louisburgh where my ancestors are lying. Tried to find family graves, but we were unsuccessful. Did meet an Irish man saying his prayers around the holy well at the cemetery. He tried to help us find our ancestors.

Our first Guiness and Shandies of the trip! I am not really a beer drinker, but I have to admit the Guiness was delicious!

The sunset over Clew Bay from our airbnb – after 10 pm! Incredible!

Friday- May 26- our day to climb Croagh Patrick… an important pilgrimage destination for centuries. I made it about 1/3 of the way up… Bill and Bob reached the summit. I was glad to walk what I could, while trying to be in touch with my limitations. The weather was incredible… the views beyond description!

Bob and Bill at the summit of Croagh Patrick!

Sunrise from my bedroom- begins at 4:30 am.

Saturday, May 27 – walked the Skelp and and Brackloon Forest trail today … literally began less than 300 feet from our house. It was a fabulous, wonder filled hike. 9 miles (whew!) through farm paths and sheep fields ( soooo many sheep!), country one lane roads, view of the back side of Croagh Patrick, forest trails, and the final ascent to our house! Such diversity to savor! And another day of partial sunshine and mid sixties weather. How fortunate we are with this fantastic weather!

Bob – a wolf in sheep’s clothing!

Moss and ferns everywhere… oh the green greens of Ireland!

The beer garden at the Tower on Westport Quay. A summer day in Ireland in May! Joy and celebration of our 9 mile walk!

Signing off for tonight! Oiche mhaith!

Here is a preview… my brother Bob arrived a few days ahead and has been hiking near Dingle.

Mt. Brandon

Oh, Civitella Ranieri…

Mystical, magical, wonder filled,

Amongst the rolling Umbrian landscape. 

Bathed in fog, sun, moon glow, rain.

Serenity… aliveness. 

Beauty… ruggedness.

Awe… everydayness.

Light… shadows.

Community… solitude.

History… innovation.

Laughter… tears.

Overwhelming beauty,

Peace and gentleness. 

The heart and soul overflow. 

 

Oh, Civitella Ranieri…

Arco’s solitude and warm embrace,

Afternoon tea replenishes,

Stillness and quiet abound.

This simple abode caresses me in peace.  

 

Romana’s love filled food

Nourishes body, spirit and conversation.

Lasagna tastes so light.

Cauliflower is fit for a queen.   

 

Daily pilgrimages to the secret garden,

The palette changes from

Green to blue to gray to night. 

The mystical fog dances across the landscape 

Hiding, revealing… hiding, revealing.

 

The community of friends,

Old and new.

Sharing food and wine 

And stories and love.

Pass the chicken please. 

 

Ilaria and Diego

Bless us with their presence,

Make us laugh,

Hold us in a caring embrace. 

 

The chapel reveres

our night prayers.

Chilly air, paintings unrestored,

Warm hearts and souls.  

 

Dottie’s tragic news pierces like an arrow 

What to do but hold her gently 

And lovingly in our hearts

And in the peace of this sacred place. 

 

Oh, the spiritual places…

Sister Gloria…

Glows brightly in her joy

And peace. 

Her icons are God sent. 

 

Brother Giuseppe… 

Smiles in his serenity

And welcomes us with

heartfelt hospitality. 

 

The Franciscans at La Verna…

Chant in sacred harmony

As the fog enfolds the cross.

 

Assisi…

Welcomed as neighbors at San Leonardo, 

In communion with St. Francis. 

 

And, not to forget,

The earth and sky and fields and hills,

Are laden with sacredness. 

 

Oh, the art…

Piero della Francesca…

Genius and giant,

The Resurrection, Madonna del Parto. 

 

Francesco Moretti…

Brilliant glass queen,

The colors…the detail,

How is it possible?

 

Pietro Lorenzetti…

Altar piece in loving restoration.

 

Dana’s knowledge and passion 

And love for it all,

Make the art soar and the soul sing.  

 

Oh, the music…

Diego and the spoons, 

The brick and wine bottles too,

What delight, what joy!

 

Libercantus in harmony,

Filling the baroque church

With angels voices.

 

And then there is

The music of

Silence and

Tea kettles. 

 

Oh, Umbria, dear Umbria…

Your hills cry out joyously.

Your furrowed fields yield new life.

Your colors and textures astonish. 

Your fog and mist embrace mystery.

Your old streets abound with alleys and life.

Your churches and markets enliven.

Your food nourishes and excites. 

Your hills and valleys rebound. 

Your olive and cedar and sea pines enchant. 

Your history exudes.

Your art shines. 

Your beauty overwhelms.

Bellissimo sweet Umbria. 

God’s grace overflows.

Visited the Studio Moretti Caselli in Perugia where the same family has been creating painted stained glass since the mid 19th century when Francesco Moretti began producing stained glass. Francesco combined his artistic gift with new techniques that he invented to meld the paint to the glass. His works are incredible, and the family continues the work today.

Giorgio, our guide at the museum and studio

Queen Margarita of Italy- one of Francesco’s early pieces. This stained glass is exquisite- the color, detail and beauty are incredible!

Wandered around Perugia for awhile and had our first gelato of the trip! Yummmm…

The countryside from Perugia

Group photo- with Diego, Ilaria, Dana and Chloe

Pizza tonight baked in the wood oven- including one pizza with blue cheese and truffles! Delicious!

Flying home early tomorrow after an amazing and unforgettable experience! Thank you for coming along on my adventure! Ciao!

 

Began the day visiting Abbey and Monastery of Montecorona in Umbertide. The Abbey had ancient Roman column capitals in its lower church, as well as Celtic designs that may have come from the barbarians.

Upper church where many weddings are held. After WWII many Catholic Churches would not perform wedding ceremonies for Communists. The priest at Montecorona did marry Communists in his church.

Up the hill about 800 meters, the Hermitage of Montecorona is home to 12 monks in an order with very recent roots dating to 1950- the order of Bethlehem, the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, and Saint Bruno. It started with a vision of “Mary in the Sky” – Mary in body and spirit. Very interesting to hear a young French brother talk about the history. This order spends most of its time in silence and solitude, including all meals except on Sunday.

San Diego ( our amazing Civitella historian and guide)

The Trinity is very important to this order of monks, and this icon hangs over the altar of the small chapel, as well as over the altar of the larger church which is under restoration.

Brother Giuseppe and Ilaria (one of our hosts)

Chapel of Immaculate Mary

Had an incredible lunch at the Abbey Restaurant

After returning to Civitella, we had a fun filled cooking lesson with the great cook here at the castle- Romana. She made apple strudel, cream zucchini and leek soup, pork loin with laurel leaf and wrapped in tripe, and carmelized purple onions. Delicious dinner!

 

Travelled to Assisi on Sunday where we attended a very welcoming Eucharistic service at the Anglican Church at St. Leonard’s. The service  was focused around love and peace since it was Remembrance Sunday- the 101st anniversary of Armistice Day ending WWI. We sang the St. Francis Prayer as one of the hymns- one of my very favorites…

After a delicious lunch I visited the crypt where St. Francis is interred. It was busy with photo taking tourists at first, but when they left I could feel the incredible spirit of St. Francis and the place. I then wandered through the city and grounds by myself… peaceful and wonderful, even amongst the tourists.

On our way to the concert…

Early evening we had the incredible opportunity to enjoy and savor a sacred music concert by Libercantus, in a small church in Assisi. They were absolutely incredible… each day we keep receiving such special “gifts” on this Sacred Umbria tour.

 

On Monday we travelled to the region of Marche to the Monastery of Fonte Avellana. The drive to the monastery through the Appenines was breath taking- sheer rock cliffs, fall foliage… amazing landscape. We also had to share the road with some friendly cows!

The monastery was built between the 10th and 12th century and had one of the most famous scriptoriums of Europe during that period. Was interesting to learn that there were two “classes” of monks during that time- the intellectuals who could read and write the sacred texts, and the laborers who did other jobs in the monastery. Hmmm… class system even in the monastery.

The scriptorium with lots of windows to light the room for the scribes.

View from the monastery

Stopped in Gubbio for lunch on our way back to Civitella- an incredible lunch at a famous geologic site ( Osteria del Bottaccione) where they have found evidence of the meteor hitting the earth when the dinosaurs became extinct.

Our delightful chef at the restaurant… they treated us soooo well!

After numerous courses we finished with “holy” wine, biscottis, and other treats.

Began the day watching in wonder how the clouds settled over the Umbrian hills… covering and revealing the landscape in a magical, mystical dance.

Travelled to a monastery of cloistered nuns (only 5 living in the convent) from the Clarisse Order (established by St. Clare). Had an incredible opportunity to hear an inspirational lecture on iconography by Sister Gloria. She is such a joyous and peaceful soul- her lecture came from a place of whole heartedness and deep knowledge in that she is a tremendously talented icon painter (or writer as they say). “You create the icon from the perspective of how God sees those in your painting, not how you see them.”

Sister Gloria’s awe inspiring icons

Montone

Pawleys Island friends Sue, Denise and I ventured to a nearby waterfall, passing by olive fields and an agriturismo filled with animals.

Diego, the historian at Civitella and one of our hosts, gave us a wonderful gift this evening by bringing his folk music group from Perugia to entertain us. Marvelous voices… with Diego playing the spoons, another man playing the brick, and another the wine bottles! It was soooo much fun!

 

 

One more photo from last night… moon over the castle.

Travelled to Sansepolcro on Friday, the birthplace of Piero della Francesca, and the location of his masterpiece The Resurrection. Aldous Huxley called The Resurrection (1465) the greatest painting ever created, and this fame protected the city of Sansepolcro during WWII because the allies did not want to bomb the city and destroy it. It was recently restored and sits in a museum that was once the municipal building ( the city commissioned Piero to do the fresco for the municipal building).

Christ’s face in this painting is so very different from most depictions of Christ during the period. Apparently Piero (who is depicted in his self portrait as the second Roman soldier) painted his figures ( including Christ) to look like working people of the time. Again, the Director from Civitella was our extraordinary guide for this in depth look at the work of Piero della Francesca.

We had some time to wander the wonderful streets of Sansepolcro before having a marvelous lunch at a local restaurant.

Around Sansepolcro

In the afternoon we travelled to La Verna to the place where St. Francis went for a forty day fast and where he received the stigmata. A Franciscan monastery now sits on this site. We had an amazing experience as we came across the monks and other pilgrims processing in the hallway of the stigmata toward the stigmata chapel chanting and praying in magnificent voices. It was incredible! We then went into the church and several minutes later the monks returned to the church chanting as they processed by us. A double gift!

The crag in a rock where St. Francis reportedly lived when he was in La Verna. The monastery was built around this sacred spot.

The fog on the mountain at the monastery felt like a mystical and spiritual embrace…

 

Arrived at Civitella Ranieri in Umbertide in the Umbria region of Italy on Tuesday. What an amazing place Civitella is… full of wonder, history, beauty and a deep sense of peace. To think this castle built in the 15th century was once an element of warring factions… now a place where artists and groups can create, innovate, contemplate and learn in community and fellowship. Our tour over these next days is focused on Sacred (Spiritual) Umbria.

Two views from my small apartment called Arco (Arch) … and my reading chair. Full of history and character… cozy, simple, quiet… A little bit of heaven nestled within the majesty of the Umbrian hills.

Views around the castle… the skies were incredible on Weds… the light and colors dancing from gray to blue- gray to bright blue with sun… Wednesday was a quiet day to settle in and explore downtown Umbertide.

My apartment is the 3 story windows to the left of the arch.

Walking in Wonder on a trail around the hill that the castle sits on

On Thursday we travelled to Arezzo to view the incredible frescoes at the Basilica Di San Francesco — Legend of the True Cross by Piero Della Francesca.

In Arezzo we were tremendously privileged to visit a restoration workshop where we learned how they are restoring a Pietro Lorenzetti altarpiece that will be finished next year and returned to its church in Arezzo for its 700th anniversary. It has been under restoration for 6 years! What an awe inspiring opportunity to see this masterpiece up close and learn from the master restorers. We were asked not to post any photos of the actual restorations since they are private until reinstalled in the church.

Travelled to the small town of Monterchi to view Piero della Francesca’s masterpiece, “ Madonna del Parto” — Pregnant Madonna. Our guide for Thursday was the Director of Civitella whose knowledge of and passion for art and della Francesca is extraordinary.

After dinner and compline in the chapel, walked around the castle in the crisp clear air under a starry sky and waxing moon.

On Thursday Sept 5th Bill and I hiked up MacIntyre Bluff. What a remarkable landscape! Sage brush, pine forests, Rattlesnake Lake… high desert wonder! I was not sure how easy it would be for me, but thankfully my brother pushed me a bit and encouraged me to do it! I loved the 7 mile hike… some gentle rise paths and a few relatively steep inclines! So rewarding to do the hike with incredible beauty and a grand vista at the summit.

Had a wonderful dinner at the Liquidity winery. The view and sunset from the alfresco dining was incredible!

Drove back to Seattle on Friday, through the beautiful orchards and Okinogan and Columbia River valleys.

Saturday was a really fun day. I played as Bill’s patenque partner at a tournament in Edmonds. And Bill and I were runners up in the consolante round — finished 12th out out of 24 teams and then runner up in the 8 teams in the consolation bracket. Not bad for my first time ever playing! And it was really fun!

Our competitors in the consolante bracket. Michelle is from France and the president of the Edmonds Pétanque Club.

On a Saturday night Bill and Mary Lou had a marvelous cocktail party so we could meet their friends. What fun! And nephew Jed did an amazing job catering the party, which included a thunder and lightning storm that many said they never seen the likes of before.

Great niece Lyla and nephew Chef Jed

Willy, Jessi, Lyla and Jed

On Sunday we visited our friends Lindsey and Tim on Bainbridge Island. Their twin boys just turned 6… we had lots of laughs and fun, and an amazing dinner!

Eli and Neil on the rock climbing wall. Quite an interesting experience!

This is how 6 year olds respond to “smile”!

Traveled home on Monday… a great reunion with Shadow and Tigger. Thanks for coming along on our journey… ciao!