We are excited to be sailing in Costa Rica and Panama on a Windstar cruise this week. Looking forward to rest, relaxation, and exploration! My brother Bob is cat sitting with Shadow and hanging out with Mom – thank you Bob! We welcome you to join us on the blog and come along with us on our travels!
Left Spoleto and headed for San Gimignano where we would stay for our last 2 nights on the tour… stopped off at Cortona, a city with roots back to the Etruscans.
Arrived in Cortona to find ourselves transported back in time with medieval archers– the various neighborhoods were involved in an archery competition… men and women alike!
Visited the fascinating Etruscan Museum in Cortona — the top photo is an intricate Etruscan oil chandelier.
From around Cortona…
And then we were off to the remarkable town of San Gimignano…
San Gimignano from afar…
Today we had to say good by to our terrific bus driver, Tiziano– shown here with Tiziana our tour manager.
San Gimignano main square…
Our hotel on the square and our room with a view…
San Gimignano– What a magical place!
Wonderful dinner for two in San Gimignano…
Day 12– up early to catch the early morning light and walk in the empty streets in San Gimignano… incredible!
Last night’s wine bottles from a restaurant waiting for recycle pick up… 😀😀
Took a trip to tour Siena on our last day in Tuscany…
The main square in Siena
Poster of the Palio race… see below
Our local tour guide took us through the distinct “neighborhoods” of Siena… neighborhoods that form close communities and compete in the annual Palio di Siena horse race around the square. When a neighborhood wins the race they proudly fly flags in their neighborhood! This year’s winner was the “she wolves”. An interesting fact from our guide — who is a “panther” … apparently everything goes, dirty tactics and all, in the race… so if one neighborhood draws a good horse and jockey their fierce competitors can knock the jockey off the horse, etc. — but only the horse has to finish, jockey or not!
Spectacular Siena Cathedral (Duomo di Siena), dedicated to the Assumption of Mary… with treasures of Pisano, Donatello and Michelangelo
The last photo is one of the mosaics in the floor– uncovered only 6 weeks during the year — we were fortunate to see these beautiful mosaics!
A wall that was started in medieval times in order to enlarge the cathedral, but was abandoned when the plague hit Europe.
Beautiful Siena…
Farewell dinner overlooking the beautiful vista around San Gimignano… saying good by to our traveling companions and new friends…
At the train station in Florence waiting for the Rome train– stayed in Rome one night and then returned home to the upcoming hurricane…
So in thinking about our trip the following words and phrases come to mind: art; history; Michelangelo; amazing landscapes; great wine; vineyards; olive trees; gelato; transported back in time; great food; new friends; churches and cathedrals; St. Francis; walking, walking, walking; hill towns; exploration and wandering; wonder and awe… oh, how truly blessed and fortunate we are!
Ciao! Until next time… thanks for coming along with us to Italy!
Left Gubbio and headed to Spoleto that would be our home for the next 2 nights. Spoleto is the hometown of our tour director and Amber Roads Tours owners, and the sister city of Charleston, SC.
On the way to Spoleto we stopped at the olive oil museum in Torgiano, the small medieval town of Deruta famous for its ceramics, and the Teatro Della Concordia in Monte Castello di Vibio ( the smallest theater in the world).
Deruta ceramics- all hand made by families across the generations. Extraordinary… well, we did help the Deruta economy a bit by purchasing beautiful oil and vinegar cruets…
99 seats in the Teatro Della Concordia in Monte Castello di Vibio- box seats and all! The details were phenomenal! Kathy and Kevin — our traveling companion and enthusiastic photographer!
Beautiful Monte Castello di Vibio — and we had the streets all to ourselves!
Arrived in Spoleto via the remarkable system of escalators (didn’t count the flights of escalators but it was approximately 8 flights!) which were installed to connect the modern city to the historic medieval city up the hill when they banned cars from the old city.
A few of our first views as we exited the escalators — spectacular!
Group dinner with the wonderful owners of Amber Road Tours — Jonathan and Sonya (at distant table)! Chris and Yvonne from New Zealand on the left, and Tina and Ed from Virginia on the right… and Tom and Mary in the back from Indiana… great traveling companions!
Day 10 — Had a tour of Spoleto by local guide Marco, who had been such a terrific guide in Assisi.
Marco and our tour manger Tiziana… such wonderful people!
Roman theater next to our hotel…
In addition to the escalator system, a new underground moving sidewalk system opened recently after being constructed over 20 years. Elevators take you to the sidewalk and help you move around the hill town… Quite a remarkable engineering feat!
The Roman aqueduct… this was actually the only evidence we saw of the recent earthquake in Umbria. We would have entered the city yesterday walking over this aqueduct — but alas– it was closed while the engineers inspected it for earthquake damage. Impressive, nevertheless!
Around Spoleto… I loved the light and shadows…
Approaching the Cathedral di S. Maria Assunta…
Another wedding… what fun… and we entered the back of the church and listened to the marvelous music for a bit!
Special treat for a private tour of the 17th century Teatro Caio Melissa which has hosted many celebrities… Frederico Fellini, Isa bella Rossellini, and many more… and it continues to host Spoleto events!
Group lunch… just in case you have missed it… good food was certainly an important part of our adventure!
In the afternoon, Keith and I explored Spoleto on our own…
Lots of cats in Italy…
Ciao! It has been good to work on the blog as we prepare for Matthew… headed to pick up Mom so she we will be with us for the storm. One more entry to go…
Changed hotels on day 7 as we headed to Gubbio for 2 nights where we would stay in an extraordinary old convent.
Our cappuccino stop today was at Lake Trasimeno which was the location of the biggest and most decisive ambush in history- Hannibal beating the Romans.
Lake Tresimeno
Then we were on to Assisi- what an incredible and moving experience to visit the Basilica di San Francesco and the tomb of St. Francis. Our wonderful guide Marco made the history and art come alive. And St. Francis’ message of love for all God’s creatures certainly could not be more important than it is in today’s world.
The Basilica
On the streets of Assisi
Michel- the craftsman who made a purse that I bought
After the amazing pilgrimage to Assisi we were on to Gubbio, one of the best preserved medieval cities in Umbria…
Looking out on Gubbio from the museum that holds ancient Etruscan language tablets
An antique car rally parading through Gubbio…
Major square in Gubbio and from the square at sunset…
Group dinner in a medieval era setting in Gubbio… Spectacular!
Day 8– went into the region of The Marches to visit Urbino and its Palazzo Ducale of the Duke Frederico.
The Palazzo… incredible architecture and beautiful art. We also toured the underground level of the servants and working quarters- kitchen, food storage, horse stables, etc. Fascinating and certainly a peak into the window of the wide discrepancy between the elites and their servants.
In the Palazzo… The Venus of a Urbino Returns to Court (1538) … fantastic masterpiece by Titian that is on loan from the Ufizzi. Was originally intended to be in this palace in Urbino.
Urbino, a university town… no caps and gowns for these graduates– laurel wreaths instead! They sure were having a good time!
After returning to Gubbio we took the “birdcage” lift ( basically an open gondola that looks like a birdcage) down the mountain- what a spectacular bird’s eye view of the medieval town!
Learned about the Palio Della Balestra festival which has been going on since 1461. Men from neighborhoods run down the mountain with large “candles” in celebration of Saint Ubaldo. Photo of the “candles” inside the Basilica of St. Ubaldo.
Began day 5 with a morning — yes, morning–wine tasting and cellar tour of the Cantina Winery owned and operated entirely by women. They make Brunello wines — considered among the most prestigious of Italy.
Julia our guide at the wine cellar
One of the women working at the winery– the harvest had begun in full force!
In the vineyard…
Went on to Montalcino — a wonderful hill town that was the final bastion of the Republic of Siena.
The long trudge…
Beautiful Montalcino…
Couldn’t help myself– swinging in the medieval city of Montalcino…
From Montalcino we went on to the 9th century abbey Sant’Antimo, said to have been established by Charlemagne.
The abbey…What a remarkable and spiritual place…
At the end of the day Keith and I toured the Palace (in Pienza) of Cardinal Rodrigo Borgia who became Pope Alexander VI. The real story there is that we almost got locked in for the night- tried to exit but the big gate was locked! Keith said that is something he did not want to do in a Borgia palace! Finally rescued by the staff! 😀😀
This next photo is from a day or two ago- this is the villa that was Russel Crow’s home in the ” Gladiator” movie – was supposed to be Spain but was actually filmed in Tuscany!
Day 6…
Trip to the “dying city” of Civita di Bagnoregio which is eroding away. Great walk across the bridge to reach the beautiful medieval city! Then on to Orvieto…
Civita
Fascinating Etruscan caves in Orvieto
The magnificent cathedral in Orvieto
A wonderful ending to the day was a great dinner at an Osteria in Pienza- local specialties and wine chosen by the owner, Luciano…
Luciano and the almond snake cake!
Ciao! Off to dinner!
Having some technical connection problems and time constraints, but thought I would post at least one day.
Left the plains of northern Tuscany on Sunday morning to move into the hill towns and on to Pienza for three nights. On the way to Pienza we stopped at Monteriggioni, a 13th century walled fortress for a cappuccino. So began our frequent uphill (and downhill) treks into the hill towns… ah, but oh so beautiful — and what a quiet little village Monteriggioni is!
Monteriggioni
The Tuscan landscape… and the Calanchi ( clay hills)
Our next stop was the abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. A Benedictine monastery set amongst forests of cypress, pine and oak.
The abbey — Spectacular setting, wonderful frescoes and moving Gregorian chant sung by the monks at Sunday mass.
Delicious ravioli for lunch at the restaurant at the abbey.
Arrived at Pienza, our home for the next 3 nights. Pienza was constructed by Pope Pius II in the mid 15th century as an ideal renaissance city. Even the medieval cathedral was torn down to make way for a “new” renaissance cathedral.
Pienza
A small city full of life- children playing outside the cathedral in Pienza on a Sunday afternoon.
Looking down on the beautiful Orcia Valley from Pienza at sunset.
Visited the wonderful walled city of Lucca on Friday.
Renaissance Wall Fortifications 80′ feet thick ( and originally with a moat) to defend against cannon fire! The “enemies” were the Medicis from Florence and the Pisans- the reputation of the strength of these walls prevented any cannon fire or effective invasion!
What was once a military fortress is now a delightful 2.5 mile long park for walking and biking around the perimeter of the Renaissance city. Was a real joy to walk on the wall!
The botanical gardens in Lucca- trees have been brought here from around the world- this sequoia brought from the US in 1840.
St. Michael’s Church
Great fun to see a wedding party entering St. Michael’s!
A while after the wedding began this young boy and man (probably his grandfather) came out of the church and sat on the steps near the car of the bride and groom. What a joy watching them for a while- I am guessing that the boy was getting squirmy in church- his grandfather was just wonderful with him!
A few photos of beautiful Lucca…
Went back to Florence to visit the Accademia and the Ufizzi…
What can I say- no words to describe the wonder of David… ( at the Accademia)
Our local guide, Michael… he knows and loves Michelangelo!
The Duomo from the Ufizzi…
The Ufizzi is phenomenal… Michelangelo, Botticelli, Da Vinci and many more… and the architecture is amazing as well!
Michelangelo…
What a treat to come across Renaissance players opening up the Festival of Baccus in the Piazza della Signoria!
Keith and our great tour manager, Tiziana, from Amber Road Tours!
Off to Pienza tomorrow! Ciao !
Had a wonderful last day in Florence! Started our day with a trip to the market to buy ingredients for a dinner in our apartment- homemade ravioli, porcini mushrooms for the sauce, and salad fixings- yes, I do love markets!
Our museum fix for the day was the Museo del Bargello- it is to sculpture what the Uffizi is to painting– just spectacular! A few of Michelangelo’s best early pieces, two of Donatello’s Davids, and much more… all this housed in a fabulous 13th century palazzo.
Baccus- an early Michelangelo piece- just 21 when he sculpted it.
One of Donatello’s Davids… beautiful…
Three generations and seven sculptors in the Della Robbia family… very interesting glazed terra cotta pieces…
Okay… I couldn’t resist putting this one in the post… Keith and I sat down to rest and there right in front of us were these tight buns… somehow looking at the sculpture from our resting position gave us a new perspective 😀😀
Ponte Vecchio with dark storm clouds- although the storm went around Florence.
A little bit of cultural observation and enjoyment of “everydayness”. This man has a wonderful woodworking workshop in the open air courtyard that our apartment looks out on. He has been deconstructing old crates and other things- I have really enjoyed watching him from afar. He makes me smile!
The dinner result of our morning shopping…
We ended our day with a wonderful concert of great arias. We have so much to be grateful for!
Travelled today to Pistoia on the first day of our time with the tour group. Pistoia is a beautiful small city with very few tourists. The square is amazing – from the 12th century. And the Duomo has a relic of St. James- Pistoia was a stop on the pilgrims’ trail from Rome to Santiago de Compostela along the el Camino.
Miles upon miles of tree nurseries around Pistoia. They export the trees all around the world- quite amazing nurseries with all types of trees!
The Duoma and tower- in an incredible Piazza with children riding bikes and wedding parties!
In the Duoma with the relic of St. James. This cricifixion painting is dated to 1250.
Keith relaxing in Pistoia. We had a wonderful group dinner in Pistoia outside, under the Duomo tower. Perfect!
Arrived in Florence on Sunday by train from Rome. Settled into our wonderful apartment which would be home for 4 nights. Had some initial trouble with the electricity, but it provided us with the opportunity to have a great conversation with the owner, Marie. She … Continue reading Firenze… oh, beautiful Firenze!
Arrived on Thursday… and after a good nap and hot shower, we explored the neighborhood around our hotel- the Termini neighborhood near the train station. Our first stop was a gelataria recommended by the hotel. It will be hard to beat this opening “deliciousness” standard of gelato- but I am sure we will try throughout our trip!
We loved exploring the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli and its architectural origins of the Baths of Diocletian. An amazing Basilica, designed by Michelangelo, a meridian line and Great Sundial from 1702, wonderful background music… we loved this church!
Friday we took two tours- Hidden Gems of Rome and the Coliseum night tour. We got drenched in the pouring rain on the first tour- but it was worth it! And we certainly will never forget the rain in the Jewish Ghetto…
Small brass markers on the street in front of homes where victims of the holocaust lived. Quite powerful… the Jewish community in Rome has roots going back before the Diaspora.
Keith on the Appian Way… after the rain stopped. Imagining the Roman legions marching through…
Incredible aqueduct outside a Rome- 55 kilometers long in its day – and a large reason for the downfall of a Rome when the “barbarians” destroyed the aqueduct and cut off the water supply to Rome.
Noon cannon fire on Janiculum Hill ( at the Piazza Garibaldi). A daily tradition from the spot where the French bombarded Rome in 1849… and the view from the Janiculum was fantastic!
Great evening tour of Piazza Campidoglio, the Roman Forum and the Coliseum — we were fortunate to have a tour guide who is a Phd Archeologist who dug at the Coliseum for numerous years! The history, stories and night lighting added up to a very special tour– a little rain… but we were spared the big storm that had been predicted.
The brewing storm clouds were spectacular at the Monument of Vitoria Emanuele II as we waited for the tour guide.
The Roman Forum lit at night- takes your breath away!
The Coliseum at night- quite a remarkable experience!
Saturday brought us to Santa Maria Della Vitoria Church, back to Santa Maria degli Angeli to see the sun on the Meridian Line, and to the National Museum of Rome. Beautiful, partly cloudy day- quite different from the rain yesterday!
Bernini’s St. Teresa in Ecstacy (1652) at Santa Maria Della Vitoria Church – phenomenal piece of sculpture!
Sun on the meridian line at Santa Maria degli Angeli!
Michelangelo’s Cloister at the National Museum of Rome. I loved the sculpture, but the architecture and peace of the cloister was my favorite!
The cloister through an oval window in the museum…
off to Florence tomorrow by train… back on line with the blog in a few days… thanks for coming along on our journey!
Nancy & Keith's Travel Blog 