Tues- August 27th

A tradition on the Windstar cruises is to have a wonderful deck buffet one evening. Being in more blustery weather in Scotland, the buffet was set out in the very large galley… whole pig and all!

Weds- August 28th – since anchoring conditions were uncertain at Portrush today, we docked in Belfast (close to Portrush) where planned excursions could still take place. Keith and I set out on our own to explore Belfast. Belfast photos and a few thoughts below.

Belfast Cathedral (The Cathedral of St. Anne)

Street scene and city hall dome

We took an on and off bus around Belfast, and were most moved by the tour of the “troubles” area where there were numerous murals representing heroes on both sides of the troubles. The “peace wall” which separated the unionists and nationalists (Catholics) was 25 feet or so tall made of concrete, corrugated metal, and topped by razor wire ran 21 kilometers around the city – and it still stands. And most astounding was to hear that some gates still close between 6 pm and 6 am – 25 years after the Good Friday Agreement. Apparently some walls are coming down, but slowly, there are still many remaining.

Dinner at Candles Restaurant- wonderful sunset!

One of the traditions of Windstar cruises is the staff talent show. Windstar does not have the big shows of larger cruise lines- we like it that way. The talent show of the crew is always amazing and fun. This is the synchronized swimming team- use your imagination on how they perform on the stage! This is considered “the most dangerous act ever performed on the high seas during high wind and waves”. Great fun!

Thursday August 29- docked at Douglas on the Isle of Man ( a self governing British Crown dependency). We loved this island! I went on a hiking excursion along the southern coastline in Castletown- incredible sights, history and coastline!

Volcanic rock at the right- limestone that has been quarried over history. Incredible wonder!

One of our guides discussing the ruins of an early Christian church, on the same mound of land where a Viking was buried with his ship and treasures ( and wife!) so he could take them with him in to the next life.

It was an incredible hike!

After my hike, Keith and I took a short walk in to Douglas. The Bee Gees ( one of Keith’s favorite groups) are from the Isle of Man and there is a great statue of them at the waterfront. One of my guides, Helen, was walking by and she and Keith posed with the Bee Gees!

Scenes at the waterfront, including palm trees and sunken gardens.

Dinner on the last night of the cruise- with our buddy, Nanda.

August 30 – A Visit to St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin on our way to the hotel where we were staying prior to flying out on Saturday August 31.

Had a good trip home- no delays or hassles. Thanks for coming along on our journey… Until the next time…

At anchor in Ullapool (Aug 26), I went on a hiking excursion to Knockan Crag, where we saw the geological first identified here – the ” Thrust” in which enormous forces move rocks sideways. The Moine thrust has resulted in an unusual situation where older Moine rocks have come to lie over much younger rocks (showing a record of the last 3000 million years of history for the Scottish landmass. )
The hike was a bit difficult but the views were really spectacular! Just a quick light shower and the sun came peaking through. Loved breathing in the cool Sottish air! The Highlands countryside is awe inspiring!!

Today (Aug 27) we were scheduled to anchor in Tobermory, and I was going to go on an excursion to Iona … the excursion I was most looking forward to. But it was not meant to be… we could not anchor in Tobermory because the wind was too strong (gales at 40 mph).
After the captain made the decision that we could not anchor, a while later he told us that we were going to go to Belfast tonight ( where we will have a berth) since we may have the same anchoring and tendering problem in Portrush. I am doing fine with the weather- my sea bands are working really well.
So with a day at sea, I decided to take a few photos around the ship. Words for the day… flexibility, gratitude and acceptance.

Nando, our buddy from the Yacht Club.

Rayan our terrific steward, and guess what we tried at lunch… just one bite!

Seas stirring up…

Chicago O’Hare…

Have had some technical problems with writing the blog, but I think I am on track now.
We had some travel challenges getting to Scotland… thinking for a while that we might miss the embarkation of our ship in Edinburgh. Scheduled to leave on Monday Aug. 19, our flight was cancelled because of storms in Newark. We were rebooked for 2 days later and had mechanical problems in Chicago. We began talking about where we wanted to go on vacation if we missed the ship. Fortunately they did have another plane available and we arrived at the port just in time for embarkation, where they actually bused us to another port because the winds (from Ernesto!) had made it impossible to dock the ship in Leith (Edinburgh)!

Bad travel karma is hopefully now behind us and we so excited that we made it the ship! Now on to the mystery and wonder of our adventure!

Relaxing in our cabin after a long and stressful travel experience.

First evening on ship… My first scotch ( Dalmore- yummy) and Keith’s great martini!

Harry, the bartender and jokester! The crew is terrific!

At sea all day on Friday…. settling in. Saturday Aug 24- Up early to watch the approach into our first port- Invergordon. Sun reflecting off an oil drill repair platform and our pilot ship. Love this early morning on the ship when few people are yet up.

Hired a taxi today (Saturday) and our first stop was Cawdor Castle and its incredible gardens! I was in my happy place exploring the magnificent gardens!

Cawdor Castle from the 14th century. Reputably known as Macbeth’s castle and the site of the murder of Duncan.

Culloden Battlefield- site of the last battle to be fought on British soil, namely the bloody Battle of Culloden in 1746 between Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Duke of Cumberland. The Jacobites got beaten badly and it began the decline of the Scottish clan system over the next 40 years. The desolate fields where the conflict took place have scarcely changed over the past 250+ years.
Photos above – the cairn is the burial site for those who fell in battle. The other photo is of the now beautiful site.

Our next stop was to be Loch Ness where we were planning to have lunch. An accident on the main road to Loch Ness caused us to turn back where our driver knew an alternative route up and over the mountain (on a one car road with “pass” pullovers.) Although we had to turn around on that road also because of traffic stoppage, we had a wonderful silver lining experience… heather fields and hills in the highlands. Heather actually only blooms 3 weeks a year, and we were here at the end of the blooming season. What a treat! The photo above is Loch Ness from our alternative route through the hills!

Sunday Aug 25 – berthed at Kirkwall on Orkney Island today. Our two destinations today were Scapa Flow (Keith’s interest) and the neolithic ruins (my interest). Photos above are 1) wreaths at the Royal Oak memorial museum , honoring the Royal Oak ship sunk by the U 47; 2) one of 4 barriers that Churchill had erected to protect the Scapa Flow naval base; and 3) and 4) the chapel built by Italian prisoners of war so they could practice their Catholicism.

One more Scapa Flow photo- Keith says this is the anchorage of the German fleet in June 1919; and this is what it looks like after the scuttling of the German ships – ships now on ocean’s bottom.

Stones of Stennes – ceremonial stones dating back almost 5000 years. The Neolithic Heartland of Orkney has been designated as a World Heritage Site.

The Ring of Brodgar – about 500 years newer than the Stones of Stenness. Of the original 60 stones ( creating a circle as big as a football field) there are 25 standing. A ceremonial site surrounded by a moat. Quite a remarkable and moving site!

Skara Brae- the oldest stand alone homes at Skara Brae were built around 3100 BC. An incredible archeological find!

Lunch in Kirkwall- we were looking forward to our fish and chips and local beer! Yum…

June 25 – Sunday on the Rhine…

Wonderful dinner at a restaurant overlooking the Rhine Valley.

June 26 – Currants ripening- a fabulous morning walk before leaving for the Frankfort airport hotel.

A collective of small gardens typically found near railroad tracks (or in this case the river). City dwellers work their gardens on their days off.

Keith and I walked in to the village. Had a cappuccino and witnessed this array of bikes- one shared bike parked, one tricycle for a paraplegic, and one for the postal carrier, all stopped at the red light. Not a scene likely to be seen in the US.

And in closing out our trip, here are a few photos from Keith’s symposiums in Kiel in the early days of our journey.

And this photo when his colleagues threw him a surprise birthday party… Keith calls this ” Two German naval historians and a hobbit historian”.

One last photo of the Rhine taken from the train to Frankfurt. Flew back home on the next day- June 27. A good, uneventful plane trip SC.

Thanks for coming along on our journey. So long until our next travels.
Auf Wiedersehen bis zum nachsten Mal.

June 22 – Visited Remagan where the railway bridge called “Lundendorff Bridge” was unexpectedly captured on March 7, 1945 by soldiers of the 9th U.S. Armored Division. It is estimated that this shortened the war by many months, saving many lives. The museum inside the bridge towers was very effective in telling the story surrounding the bridge capture.

Linz- ferry ride across the Rhine to visit the beautiful town of Linz. We arrived and left between rain showers so we had quiet streets in a normally busy town.

Sharing our bed with Simon.

June 23 – We took the train to Cologne to visit with Keith’s historian friend, Jost… they met 53 years ago.

June 24 – Went grocery shopping with Kellyn, one of my favorite things to do when I travel. The bakery in the grocery store was terrific… bought a baguette that had just come out of the oven. My walk in the neighborhood and along the river was filled with the wonder of amazing clouds and gentle breezes.

Dinner on the Rhine with Robin, Volker’s son visiting for the weekend. Gentle breeze, great conversation, perfect evening… Keith and I walked back to the house on the bike path along the river at twilight (9:30 pm or so). Pure delight!

June 18 – Travelled by ferry across the Kiel Fjord to visit the Naval Memorial in Laboe for all sailors world wide who have died at sea. The fjord was bursting in activity from Kiel Week- tall ships, sailboats, NATO naval ships, cruise liners, and other boats of all types and sizes.

Naval Memorial at Laboe

Tunnel to the Hall of Remembrance at the Naval Memorial

U 995 Museum at Laboe – Dr. Andre Pecher (German Naval Officer and historian) and Keith in the submarine. Andre (along with his wife Suzanne) was our terrific and generous guide for the day.

Tour of Wilhelmshafen and the Deutsches Marinemuseum with Dr. Stephan Huck, museum director as our guide. Grateful for his expert tour and generosity.

Christus und Garnisonekirche – (Wilhelmshafen)

On the North Sea near our hotel in Wilhelmshafen

Many thanks to Dr. Sebastian Bruns for his generous spirit and friendship. The fantastic activities that he arranged made this a very, very special trip. With deep gratitude…

At the train station waiting to board the ICE train to Bonn.

On the Rhine in Bad Godesberg (outside Bonn) where we are visiting our friends Volker and Kellyn. Drachenfels Mountain above the river. This is 100 meters from our friends’ home.

“Kuss am Rhein”

Dinner and after dinner relaxation in the pergola. Volker and Kellyn’s back yard is a magical place and their front yard is the Rhine and Drachenfels! Great food, friendship and conversation. And the weather has been fantastic, although they could use some rain here. Hoping this will not be a drought season for this region.

Off on new adventures today! Back in few days. Auf Wiedersehen.

June 14- Arrived in Kiel after more than 24 hours of travel door to door. Had a late dinner at the hotel… Keith is very grateful to be here… a dream come true!

June 15 – I wandered the city today as Keith had his first day of meetings (Kiel International Seapower Symposium) at the Institute for Security Policy at Kiel University (ISPK). Keith has lived in Germany on several occasions but had never been to Kiel, with its rich maritime history and naval base. As a German Naval Historian, this was a trip he had been wanting to make for many years.
The photos above are a sampling of the beauty of this city! This is a great city… accessible, walkable, water front on the Kiel Fjord, green space, pedestrian roads in the town center, coffee shops, bakeries… really comfortable and welcoming.

Keith went to Hamburg this evening to a celebration of the 175th anniversary of the German Navy. I found a great Thai restaurant near the hotel to dine alone.

June 16- Keith made his presentation at his German Naval History seminar today and then he had his first bratwurst! Yum….

Preparations are underway all over the waterfront and throughout the city (including next to our hotel) for Kiel Week which begins tomorrow. This is the world’s largest celebration of sailing when Kiel’s normal population of 250,000 swells to 2-3 million people to celebrate Kiel Week.

Keith and the midshipmen…

June 16 – We had an incredible experience this evening at a reception aboard the USS Mount Whitney, the command ship for the US Navy’s Sixth Fleet. They had been on NATO exercises ( BALTOP) for the past several weeks in the Baltic and were in port in Kiel to celebrate their alliances and Kiel Week. Quite a moving experience with speeches about NATO “defending democracies and expanding alliances”. Other ships in the navy yard included those from Italy, Denmark, Poland, France and others. This really brought home the importance of NATO and our alliances. And we talked at some length to terrific midshipmen from Annapolis who had been on the ship during the exercises. The whole evening made us hopeful…

Dr. Dieter Hartwig and Keith in Dr. Hartwig’s living room…

June 17 – We were graciously invited to have tea at Dr. Hartwig’s home. Dr. Hartwig is a renowned German naval historian and the grandson of Admiral Ruge who Keith had interviewed 50 years earlier. A deep and earnest conversation about German Naval History and the important role of truth telling and serious research in the writing of history.

After our tea, Dr. Hartwig gave us an extraordinary tour of the naval section of the North Kiel Cemetery where many naval personnel are buried and naval memorials have been built over many years. Dr. Hartwig wrote a book about the cemetery and its internees and brought alive the stories of the sailors.
The second photo above is Erich Raeder’s overgrown grave…. the admiral of Keith’s 2006 book. As a side note, the cemetery is really beautiful… so much greenery and graves spread out across acres and acres.

Happy birthday, Keith!! ❤️ Had a marvelous birthday dinner at a lovely restaurant this evening. Wonderful food, engaging conversation, old and new friends. We are so grateful to friends and colleagues for making so many special arrangements for our visit.

Goodnight… back with you in a few days.

June 4 – Strickeen Mountain Trail at the Gap of Dunloe, Killarney. Almost passed on the hike today- my body was tired… Decided to go and stop when my body told me to rest. So I went part way up and then found an amazing spot of grassy flatland with a trickling brook, friendly sheep, a blooming hawthorn tree and an incredible, peaceful vista! I was going to read but instead just breathed in the fresh air and view, meditated a bit and spoke with hikers going by. It was a real gift to find this spot and wait for Bill and Bob to return from their trip to the summit. Words cannot describe the peacefulness and wonder of this respite, which I never would have experienced if I had pushed myself to climb further. In deep gratitude…

After our hike up Strickeen Mountain Trail we had a wonderful lunch at the well known Kate Kearney’s Cottage in the Gap of Dunloe.

Took a small bus tour around the Rings of Kerry today. These 2 photos are taken at the Kerry Cliffs… as spectacular in their own way as the Cliffs of Moher. Skeelig Michael (of Star Wars fame) was visible from these cliffs.

A few more images from our Ring of Kerry tour. The first is a “famine house” – one of many homes deserted during the famine (1840s) as people died, ended up in “workhouses”, or emigrated to the US.

In closing out our trip, here are a few photos of life around our Airbnbs and town.

Our unbelievable house in Westport with a billion dollar view.

Our great airbnb in Killarney. Bill and Bob cooking away. This evening Bob fixed Nepali chick peas and rice.

The neighborhood cat in Killarney who wanted to come visit.

Rick and Karen at a Galway Pub. Okay… I did drink more beer in 2 weeks than I normally drink in a decade. The Guinness was actually quite delicious.

And one last image… and I think it has to be on a hiking trail. Strickeen Mountain Trail.

A friend asked me if I could choose one word to describe our trip. I decided that 3 words was the best I could do… family, adventure and beauty. And I am certain that Mom was widely smiling down on her chicks as they celebrated family and her ancestral grounds!

Now I am packing to head back to Europe on Tuesday. Keith has a military history conference in Kiel, Germany. I’ll be back on the blog soon! Thanks for coming along to Ireland with us! Slan go foill!

And even though we had fabulous sunny weather for the entire two weeks, I love this poem by Carrie Newcomer.

Dingle, Co. Kerry

Everything is closer here
Rain, wool, 
Low hanging clouds, 
Sea water, the color green, 
Time
Dry stack stone fences
Divide the upper and lower pastures,  
Dotted with quizzical donkeys, 
Shaggy ponies, Soggy sheep.
Every curve in the road
Has a story to tell you
But never directly, 
Always in a round about 
Way, never really reaching an
End, just resting for a 
Bit, a pause between 
Small moments 
For a sip of tea, before
Continuing.

He said, “No one visits Ireland for the weather”
And yet the weather is an actual presence
Dramatic, in the manner 
Of untamable wind and water
Rolling forward like a run on sentence
Or spilling down like a choir of sunlight
Through thick grey sky.
An always welcome, though unexpected  guest

It is no wonder to me that the Irish people
Created the kind of melodies
That can make you want to 
Clasp your hands together in joy
While they absolutely and utterly 
Break your heart,
As longing and living 
Exist side by side here
Overlapping it seems
A good portion of the ages.
Comedy and all the sad bits
As sure and lasting
As a circle of stones.

Carrie Newcomer - 3/4/2023

May 31- Our hike in the Burren in County Clare (Lough Avalla Farm Loop) was the most difficult and extraordinary hike I have ever done. Rocks, rocks and more rocks… a geologic wonder found no where else on earth. I was most concerned about my balance and footing, so I began to think about it as a moving meditation – focusing on each and every step in the present moment. 5.6 miles with probably 2/3rds of it walking on stones or heavily stoned paths. Whew – wonder and challenge!

At the end of our Burren hike there was a lovely coffee and tea house run by the woman who owns the cattle farm where the trails run through. I had tea made from fresh lemon balm from the garden and apple pie. It felt like an enchanted cottage in the forest, and was such a delightful and unexpected way to end a strenuous hike.

June 1 – Hiked the Cliffs of Moher trail from Doolin to the visitors center with a small group and guide. About 8 kilometers of spectacular scenery!

“Sittin in the ditch” on the cliffs of Moher trail. Farmers would rest on the burms on their farms – a perfect angle to rest and catch the warm sum.

Vital and beautiful Galway! We really liked Galway – easy to get around… vibrant with young people…” lovely”. Left Galway on June 2nd to head to Killarney for our last 4 nights. Stopped in Limerick for lunch and were very surprised by the size of the city. Our Google maps and waze apps were very unkind to us today on the leg drom Limerick to Killarney. In detouring us around a back up it took us on very narrow, back roads for 40-50 kilometers. My least favorite part of Ireland has been the narrow (often one lane) anxiety producing roads, as both a driver and passenger. So grateful to Bill and Bob who have done the lion’s share of the driving.

June 3 – Muckross House in Killarney National Park. This house was built in 1843 during the famine. Villages were being abandoned nearby and this opulence was being erected.

Took a short boat ride across Muckross Lake to Dinis cottage with a family from Tralee on a Saturday outing. The boat ride was fabulous ! Our captain John was born in Dorchester, MA of Irish parents, but had returned to Ireland many years ago.

Walked back to Muckross House (about 3 miles) through incredible rhododendron forests. Unfortunately the type of rhododendron are an invasive species. Saw Torc Falls on the walk back and then found a perfect burm to practice “sittin in the ditch”.

All for today… back with you for the final 2 days of adventure. Went hiking today but I have run out of steam catching up with the blog.

May 28- Easy, short hike in Mulranny, across Clew Bay from Westport. Stopped by Mulranny Golf Links (on the bay)to have a look and learned that the sheep get to share the golf course with the golfers (called commonage). They keep the rough short, but small wire fences keep them off the greens. Had to laugh at this– sheep are EVERYWHERE in Ireland!

Travelled to Louisburgh in the evening to hear traditional Irish music at McNamara’s Bar, established in 1852. It is highly likely that my great grandfathers tipped a pint or two here before emigrating to the US through Boston as young men. What fun – including an Irish dancer!! Most of the customers appeared to be locals, having just watched important matches of the European league soccer (football) regular season.

May 29- The Forest Walk at Benbulben in County Sligo. Bill and Bob hiked to the top of Benbulben, while Rick, Karen and I walked the perimeter forest trail at the bottom of the mountain. Moss and ferns were everywhere. The beauty and wonder of this place is unbelievable!

St. Columba’s church in Drumcliffe, County Sligo… Church of Ireland. Home of Yeats grave and a 1000 year old high cross.i

May 30- Left Westport to head to Galway for 3 nights . Stopped at Connemara National Park for a wonderful hike overlooking the incredible Irish coast. Good trails… and weather continues to be amazing! Headed to the Burren today… back in touch in a few days.