Left Bellagio on Thursday and rode to Mantova (Mantua) via Brescia. These northern Italy towns are off the beaten path but filled with history and character and culture. Brescia was founded over 3,200 years ago and has been an important regional centre since pre-Roman times. Its old town contains the best-preserved Roman buildings in northern Italy, a medieval castle, and an Old and New Cathedral. And in more recent history under Mussolini, an impressive square was built in the fascist style. So much interesting history and architecture within Brescia.

The Old Cathedral built in the 11th century— rustic round Romanesque style. The New Cathedral stands next to it.

Inside the Old Cathedral…. so much beauty in its simplicity.

The post office built during fascist period

Roman ruins in Brescia next to late medieval buildings. In northern Italy (as opposed to Rome), Roman ruins were generally not preserved, but rather, they were destroyed and their materials were reused during the medieval period.

Arrived in Mantova where we spent the next 3 nights. Had a group dinner at a marvelous restaurant, Il Cigno, that combined an elegant traditional decor, modern art and incredible flowers! The food was amazing, too, including a delicious risotto with herbs.

Palazzo Te in Mantova was constructed in the mannerist style between 1524–34 for Federico II Gonzaga,  Marquess of Mantova as a palace of leisure. The House of Gonzaga ruled Mantova for almost 400 years starting in the early 14th century, and had 3 cardinals and a Pope in the family. They gained their power and wealth by being mercenaries and defeating the leaders of the city in the early 16th century. Sure makes you think about the roles power, might, religion and wealth have played down through the centuries. One story goes… one of the Gonzaga cardinals lied to the Pope that he was 21 years old going on 22, when in fact he was 17 years. The minimum age for a cardinal was 22 years old. I guess the power, wealth and influence of the Gonzagas was what mattered… hmmmm… sounds familiar.

Giulia Romano, a pupil of Raphael, was commissioned to design the Palazzo Te building. Barely a surface in any of the loggias or salons was undecorated by frescoes. The frescoes are really incredible!

Room of the Giants, Pallazo Te

Mantua Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter and containing a chalice relic of Jesus’ blood collected by a converted Roman soldier at the foot of the cross. The chalice is taken out once a year on Good Friday and processed through the streets of Mantova.

Visited the Palazzo Ducale of the Gonzaga family, built between the 14th and 17th century and consisting of 500 rooms – yes, 500 rooms. However, no furniture or paintings remain in the palace… they were taken by the barbarians and others through the centuries.

One of several interior courtyards at Palazzo Ducale.

One of many frescoes at Pallazo Ducale.

Mantova

Today we headed to Cremona, the violin making capital of the world. There are 150 violin makers in Cremona, and we were fortunate to have a demonstration by Yael Rosenblum. She is from Israel and has been making violins in Cremona for 20 years. She is quite unique in that she is an accomplished professional violinist who then became a violin craftsperson. After our violin making demonstration, Yael wowed us by playing one of her own violins in the baptistery of the Cathedral. What an awe inspiring and wonderful opportunity we had as she shared her two gifts!

Yael in her workshop

Yael in the baptistry

The market in Cremona

A street sign in Cremona… not too many places in the world where you would have violin makers on the street sign…

The streets of Cremona where the 1000 Miglia Race was passing through. It is a 1000 mile race around northern and central Italy for antique cars. What fun!

In Cremona where we had a coffee… a very typical bar.

Our terrific Tour Manager, Federica

Our great tour group at a wonderful nouveau cuisine restaurant, LoScalcograsso, Osteria Contemporanea. The first course was Tiramasou Codfish!

Buona Notte! Leaving Mantova tomorrow to head to our last hotel in Stresa on Lake Maggiore. Ciao!